When ‘Derm-Approved’ Isn’t Data

How Compounded Estrogen Creams Went Viral, and What the Science Actually Says

Photo by Joshua Rondeau on Unsplash

TL;DR

A wave of creators, including aestheticians, dermatologists, and cosmetic chemists, is promoting prescription estriol/estrogen face and eye creams as “local” and “non-systemic.” The data they cite don’t meet the bar for systemic safety: no proper pharmacokinetics, unclear assays, short durations, small samples, and no breast/endometrial endpoints. In the U.S., these are compounded prescription products (not FDA-approved drugs); in the EU, estrogens are banned in cosmetics. Until drug-level evidence exists, blanket assurances of safety are scientifically irresponsible.